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Making
a Hanging Bird Table
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You will need:
Enough wood to make a 12" x 18" table - see below
Thin wood for sides 2 x 18" + 2 x 10"
(ish)
Strong piece of wood for the upright,
1½"-2" square or diameter x 12"
long
Metal for hanging loop - see below
Garden wire to hang table from a branch
Small screws, around 1½" long, x 8-20 depending on available wood
Substantial screws to attach table to upright x 2
Pictured left is my original table of this design outside
the kitchen window hanging from an apple tree. It has been here for about
5 years (maybe more - I forget exactly) with the only attention being to
scrub it clean every now and then and to replace two of the side pieces
when they fell off (as a result of over vigorous cleaning). Since the first
one I have made several more as gifts for friends. The whiteness is due
to a sprinkling of snow.
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1
- Find wood, cut to size
This
somewhat rough and ready bird-table is quick to make (these pictures detail
my making one in about an hour). It is very effective at its job being open
so that the birds using it feel safe (something that twee little thatched
roofs prevent), sufficiently large to get lots of food and several birds
at a time on and as it hangs from a tree branch uses little in the way of
materials by not needing to have a large stable base. The "unstable" nature
of the table when birds land seems to be something that they quite like
as I suppose it acts like a tree branch or twig swinging with their arrival.
You need to find enough wood to make a base around 12" x 18" (30 x 45cm)
exact size is unimportant. It is important however to have proper
wood rather than ply or some sort of composite board as these
will start to fall to pieces after a while when they get
wet. The wood should be reasonably thick or it will warp too much when subjected
to the weather, here I am using 4 pieces of about three quarters of an inch
thick timber left over from the fence I built down one side of the garden
last year. |
2
- Attach bits of wood to each other
Assemble
your wood loosely for the base and place two further pieces across them
to hold them together as shown. These are about 3" wide (the one in the
picture at the top of this page has two pieces of 6" wide timber).
Using nails or screws
that are about one an a half times the thickness of the wood you are using
(so they don't poke out the other side) screw or hammer them together. I
used a power driver to drive these in without any pilot holes needed as
long as they aren't too close to the edge of the wood when they may split
it.
This is the underside of the table. |
3
- Turn table over and fix again
Flip
the table over and screw or hammer more fixings in place to make the table
good and solid. Countersunk screws are the best and can be power driven
into the wood so they are flush with the surface or slightly below it
ready for the next step. |
4
- Give table a smooth surface if the wood is a bit rough
This
wood was particularly rough in finish which would make it more difficult
to clean properly. Also the pieces weren't properly flush so I planed it
down to a better smoother finish. Make sure you drive the screws in below
the level of the surface if you do this so you don't hit the planer blade
on them. A power sander would do a similar job.
It doesn't need to
be furniture grade smooth, but if it's too rough it may retain bits of food
which will rot and so make the birds ill. If your wood is planed to start
with you may be able to skip this step. |
5 -
Make a lip around the table to stop food falling off
The table is given a large lip around the edges so
that food on the table doesn't fall off too easily - when birds land on
it and it swings for instance. The lip should be the thickness of the base
plus about another inch by about a quarter of an inch or so thick. Note
that the lips on the shorter edges have a gap of about an inch at each end.
This makes it easier to clean with a scrubbing brush as it lets the water
and muck run off easily.
6 - Attach
a vertical post to hang the table from
The vertical post has been added. In
this case I used a piece of timber from some unwanted furniture I took to
pieces. In the table at the top of this page I used a piece of a branch
from the apple tree the table is hanging from when I pruned it. I prefer
the rustic look, but you have to be careful about cutting the bottom face
so that it hangs properly and not at an angle. Serious fixings are needed
to attach the vertical hanger to the table, 2 thick and long screws for
the one here for instance. Put in long pilot holes so you don't split the
timber, I used a torque driver to push the screws in, a 12v+ drill driver
should manage the job, otherwise take it slow, in either case watch the
timber doesn't split. |
 7
- Add a hanger
Finally
a substantial hanger is needed. I attach a hook to the vertical post and
then use a double loop of garden wire to go around a branch, if the branch
is living then cushion the wire with something - I find dark plastic to
be the best material, folded over several times it cushions the branch against
the wire and a dark colour makes it unobtrusive.
The hook can be
of whatever you have to hand. The left one is of a bent piece of strip metal,
the right one is of a cut off barbeque skewer, bent by 90 degrees into a
loop and held in place with a substantial woodscrew.
The table should
be hung somewhere exposed so that the birds can see around them and aren't
worried about being ambushed by the local moggie. |
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What to put on the bird table |
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