Aphids - Greenfly,
Blackfly etc. - Plant Pest
|

Aphids
picture used permission of
User:Lviatour - published
under GNU Free Documentation License,
Version 1.2
|
Natural Pest Control - Aphid Treatments Just Aphid Killer - Lacewings
£19.99
Signs - Usually thought
of as greenfly, but can be black, yellow, pink, greyish-white and brown.
About 2mm long when fully grown, roundish.
Damage - Heavy infestations
can reduce the vigour of a plant and leave it vulnerable to attack by
other pests and diseases. Frequently spread virus diseases as they move
from one infected plant to another. They also spread virus diseases,
these are usually characterised by irregular yellow patches on the leaves
which may be wrinkled but otherwise alive.
Treatment - There
are a myriad ways of dealing with aphids of various types. They fall
into four categories:
- Encourage natural predators
- Biological control
- Traditional organic remedies
- Chemical remedies
Encourage
natural predators

Such
as ladybirds, lacewings and hoverflies, by planting nectar-rich flowering
plants which attract them, such as buddleia, calendula, sedum, stocks,
sweet william and wallflowers.
If you grow a patch of nettles somewhere in
the garden, this will encourage aphids and their predators. Cut back
the nettles when aphids appear in other parts of your garden to encourage
the predators to seek them out.
Lacewing houses can be bought to put up in the garden so they have
a shelter for the winter.
Biological
control
Similar
to encouraging natural predators, but giving them a helping
hand by introducing them as well as just hoping that they
will happen along of their own accord.
Biological control of a pest relies on introducing
a predator species so "fighting nature with nature",
if chosen carefully, the predator will stop damage to your
plants without damaging the environment. Such biological
controls are safe for the user, children and pets. They
will not harm other beneficial garden insects and are biodegradable.
They do rely on the predator always having some
food though, or they will die out, so like other organic
practices it is a question of maintaining a small population
of pests to allow the predators to be ready for them, in
this case though the balance is skewed away from the problem.
In the case of aphids, there are several predators
available
Natural
Pest Control - Aphid Treatments Just Aphid Killer - Lacewings
£19.99
|
Traditional
organic remedies
Companion planting - Plant garlic cloves
(just one or two) among rose bushes. An infusion of garlic crushed into
water and sprayed on the aphids will also help remove them. Many herbs,
such as hyssop, sage, dill, lavender and thyme discourage aphids if
planted near to susceptible plants.
Nasturtiums prevent
woolly aphids infesting apple trees if planted at the base (probably
more so if encouraged to grow up the tree). If you have all of the nasturtiums
eaten by cabbage white caterpillars, just think of the butterflies you're
helping to grow.
Nettle spray. The common stinging nettle is a
discerning plant that requires high levels of nitrogen in the soil to
grow well, using the leaves in sprays of several kinds. As well as using
nettles as an activator on the compost heap the organic gardener can
use them as a liquid manure and as an aphicide - to kill aphids (greenfly).
Gather 224g (l/21b) young nettles and soak in a bucket of water
for a week. Strain and use undiluted as a control of aphids on roses
and celery leaf miner. Add the mushy nettles to the compost heap.
Rhubarb spray. The
oxalic acid in rhubarb leaves is a safe control agent for aphids, particularly
those on roses. Cut 450g (1lb) rhubarb leaves, place in an old saucepan
(the oxalic acid may damage one that you still use) with 1.1 litres
(2pt) water and boil for half an hour, topping up as necessary. When
cool, add 1 dessertspoon of soap flakes dissolved in 275ml (1/2pt) warm
water. This acts as the wetting agent when added to the strained rhubarb
liquid. Stir the mixture thoroughly and use undiluted as a spray.
Rhubarb soap - shred a couple
of pounds of rhubarb leaves into a couple of pints of water and boil
for half an hour (don't use your best pan, these leaves contain
oxalic acid and whereas it might be ok, I wouldn't risk the cooks
wrath!). Strain the liquid, mix in two ounces of soap dissolved in another
pint of water. Spray only healthy plants as prevention and affected
plants to help get rid of infestations.
Elder spray. This kills aphids, small
caterpillars and is useful as a fungicide for mildew and blackspot on
roses. The toxic agent is hydro-cyanic acid, so in preparing the spray
use an old saucepan.
Gather 450g (1 lb) leaves and young stems
of elder prefer-ably in spring when the sap is rising. Place in the
saucepan and add 3.3 litres (6pt) water. Boil for half an hour, topping
up as necessary. Strain through old tights and use the liquid cold and
undiluted. It will keep for three months if bottled tightly while still
hot.
|
Reasons to like
aphids
|
- Early in the season only females are produced so
that when one or two have found a nice tender stem,
they can multiply most rapidly to take best advantage
of this. Males aren't required at all, a process
known as "parthenogenesis" or virgin birth.
|
- During parthenogenesis the baby aphids are born
already pregnant, so grandma has daughter and granddaughter
at the same time.
|
- Later in the season, the aphids start to produce
males so that they can leave and breed with other females,
so spreading the gene pool around and introducing much
needed variety to what would become a vulnerable monoculture
with narrow genetic diversity. We wouldn't want
them dying out after all.
|
- Aphids have very narrow proboscis's (probosci
?) that can penetrate one single phloem tube that carries
sugars and other goodies around the plant. In this way,
waste is kept minimized and the aphids are fed under
pressure - they don't even have to suck!
|
|
|
- The sticky "honeydew"
that many aphids secrete are plant juices that are surplus
to needs. Aphids have only one source of food and that
has relatively too many dissolved sugars and not enough
other things - specifically amino acids - so the poor
old aphid has to drink more sap that it wants, and dump
some of the sugars to make sure it has enough amino
acids. The discarded honeydew can make your car sticky
and also allow fungus to take hold on plants as it gives
the leaves a nice sugary coating to get the spores started.
I know it's
not a reason to like aphids, but maybe by first understanding
them....
|
|
Insect deterrents
|
|
Plants
 Citron
scents are particularly effective at deterring 'midges'; hence the recent
rise in popularity of citronella - fragranced garden candles. Try growing
plants with citrus-scented foliage, such as
Geranium macrorrhizumand lemon balm. Another option is
lemon verbena, which has wonderfully aromatic foliage - not fully hardy
though, so best to grow it in a pot so that it can be brought into the
greenhouse or conservatory to over winter.
Other aromatic herbs have insect-repellent properties -
Lavender has been used for this purpose for centuries, either
in dried or fresh form. Mints can also help to repel aphids -
spearmint or peppermint can be grown near roses to deter these pests.
|
|
Chemical insecticides
 
If
your plants get a heavy infestation, then I think it's acceptable
to use a chemical insecticide as a "smart missile" just on that particular
plant. I resort to this when the aphids build up under cover on
my favourite plum tree, or other plant/s.Don't overdo it and spray too often and don't spray
the whole garden "just-in-case".
|