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Oh yes, make no mistake about it, if you're a plant "getting by" in what you're planted in, then nice garden compost is the stuff of life. There are a million and one ways of making compost and there are endless hints and tips that you could pick up, many of them conflicting. There is no secret art to making good garden compost. Just as long as you stick to a few basic principles, you should avoid the nasty sticky mess that can be the result.
If you've ever made yogurt, then the principles are the same, good starting material + correct bacteria + correct conditions = pleasant end product What you need to do to obtain nice, dark brown, crumbly compost is to keep happy a varied community of bacteria and fungi. Horrible slimy, smelly stuff that takes forever to break down is a result of too much of one or a few kinds of decomposer or having poor conditions for them to grow in. Keep the microbes happy and you will get a good result What do microbes need to grow well?
The decomposers in your compost heap need a balanced diet of carbon (brown material) and nitrogen (green material). Too much brown and decomposition grinds pretty much to a halt. Too much green (like piles of grass clippings) and it turns into a slimy mess. It is the carbon-rich material (brown) that will comprise most of the bulk of the finished compost, while it is the nitrogen-rich material (green) that will get it all rotting well and add valuable nutrients. Food that is of the right size and is "available"
Shredding your material before adding it to the compost heap is probably the best single step you can take to make your heap rot down quicker. Leaves and other plant material is designed not to rot when a part of the plant. Just like our own skin protects us from infection, plants have similar protection. When we compost plant material we need to break up the surface to expose the soft inner parts. Smaller pieces also rot quicker and you don't get long stringy woody bits in the final compost mixture.
Once made and left to rot, your heap should have a cover to stop rain from getting in and to stop it drying out.
You can help oxygen reach the contents of the compost heap by having slatted sides for air flow. Once the heap has got going (1-2 weeks) push a broom handle into the heap, right down to the bottom at intervals about 12" apart and wiggle it around to create a sort of chimney. You should get steam coming out of the vents which will help air and oxygen circulate into and through the heap. As the warm air rises up the chimney, it will be replaced by cold air being drawn in the sides over the material of the heap, so supplying it with oxygen. Add microbes to begin the "culture"
I've never found it necessary to add a 6" layer of soil as sometimes suggested, it also saves the problem of finding so much soil to add to your compost heap regularly.
Compost 2, The story continues
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