|

Polyanthus Crescendo® Mixed F1 Hybrid
36 plug plants + 6 FREE £11.99

Fuchsia Lady Boothby - world's only
climbing Fuchsia - 3 plants £6.49

Black Bamboo
Phyllostachys nigra
restrained in habit
5L pot was £34.99 - now £17.95

Fuchsia Hardy Collection
9 plants 3 of each for £8.99

Perennial Bumper Pack
36 plants - £19.99

Clematis Old Favourites Collection
3 young plants £8.98

Clematis The President
classic climber, long
flowering period
1 plant £6.49

Clematis montana Mayleen scented
1 plant 7cm pot
£6.49
3 plants
£12.98

Pansy Waterfall F1
25 plug plants £9.99

Cyclamen Coum Album - Woodland Cyclamen (White)
3 tubers £5.49
| |
Tulips come in many shapes and varieties, the most popular types
are a few are shown here:

Tulipa tarda
Species tulips, usually short, unusually shaped but still recognisably
tulips, good for borders and rock gardens. |

Tulip Ballerina
Lily-flowered tulips, the petals are pointed and swept outwards.
Tall, good for borders and impressive single variety containers. |

Tulip Triumph Mixed
The commonest shape available in a huge range of colours and patterns.
Short to tall varieties, good for bedding or containers. |

Tulip Black Parrot
Parrot flowered tulips, feathered edges to the petals, often available
in a range of unusual colours and patterns, tall. |
Tulips
are amongst my favourite flowers of any type, they manage to balance symmetrical
perfection with a faultless elegance of proportion with that indefinable delicacy
and vulnerability that the finest flowers have.
Best planted in groups of one variety,
this applies to all bulbs, but more so for tulips than any of the others, why anyone
should buy a bag of "mixed varieties and colours" is beyond me.
Take care if you have yellow tulips
and daffodils, they can get rather mixed up when flowering together.
Of the other colours, traditional
large reds are very robust and will grow in most places, but the finest to my
eye at least are the white and pink lily-flowered varieties. These have rather
taller thinner flowers than most tulips with a slightly out-turned tip to each petal.
Grown in containers for the house
tulips are an extravagance as you need a large container and the flowers are rather
short lived if you bring them into the warmth. I'd never be without a couple of
large bowls of my favourites though, bring them indoors in the day and place them
outside somewhere sheltered in the evening. If you have a cool (non-heated) conservatory,
all the better.
The shops and markets in
spring will be full of freshly cut tulips of the common shapes and shades, so go
for something a little out of the ordinary. Smaller species tulips are becoming
more commonly available, they don't seem to do so well indoors but are ideal for
a large outdoor container, just outside the front door is one of the best places
to appreciate them as often as possible.
Tulip Care
Plant - In containers,
borders or beds, NOT in grass
Depth - 5-8" of soil above
the top of the bulb, less in clay, more in sandy soils, can be planted on a
bed of grit or gravel if rotting is a problem. Squirrels may dig the bulbs up,
if this is a problem, bury chicken wire (large gaps) about 2" below the oil
surface above the bulbs.
Depth in containers -
2-3" of compost above the bulbs, in very large pots, a double layer can be planted
with the lower ones growing up through the ones above, this gives a greater
density of blooms at flowering time.
Cultivation - after flowering,
remove seed heads so not to waste resources, water once with double strength
liquid fertiliser, plenty of it to reach the bulbs and roots. Leave leaves to
die down naturally, they can removed when completely brown and can be pulled
up easily. Tulip leaves are less obtrusive than other bulbs foliage.
Container cultivation
- if the containers are to be brought indoors, grow them on somewhere cool but
sheltered a cold greenhouse, conservatory or similar is ideal. Let them grow
as tall as possible before bringing them indoors as they may get leggy and even
not flower if brought in too early. They will last longest in a cool but bright
position.
After the flowers are over, put
them outside in a sheltered position and grow / water / feed as normal for bulbs.
They will not perform as well the next year at all, so don't even bother trying,
bulbs for indoor containers should be bought fresh each year. When the leaves
have died down, they can be left to dry out and planted in the garden in the
autumn as outdoor bulbs. They won't be very good in year 2, but will be fine
from 3 onwards.
recommended varieties
Planting in containers
The key point to remember is that
these are temporary plantings, so you can plant the bulbs very close together,
almost touching, for the maximum density of flowers. Buy the largest bulbs
you can afford, smaller ones just don't perform as well and the smallest
may produce lots of leaves but no flowers at all. After flowering plant them in
the garden as soon as you can, they won't perform as well next year, you need to
start with large bought ones again.
Bulb fibre is often recommended,
but is only really necessary if the bulbs are to be planted in bowls without drainage.
I've always treated bulbs like any other container plants and use ordinary potting
compost in containers that have drainage holes and get excellent results.
If you start before about the middle
of September (but the sooner the better), you can have Spring Flowering Bulbs
for the house in flower at or just after Christmas. If you can get them
planted before November, then they will have a chance to start growing before it
begins to get very cold which will help them to flower all the earlier, they'll
certainly be up early in the new year and long before the outdoor ones have woken
up.
Daffodils / Narcissi |
Hyacinths
|