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Robinia Pseudoacacia "Frisia" - False Acacia - Tree
Questions Received About Robinias I am considering buying a Robinia Frisia and they all seem to be grafted - is this ok or should you by a root tree? What are the pros and cons? A. Plants are grafted to get the best of a good strong rootstock and quality top growth. Non-grafted trees will either have poor roots or be less attractive (but usually strong growing) above the ground. Go for a grafted tree, particularly a Robinia - non-grafted ones just don't have the same colour. Q. addendum. Thanks Paul for that info - very helpful. In fact the Robinia Frisia I have been looking at is apparently 'budded' not 'grafted' - I don't really know what the difference is - could you explain? Research I have been doing has thrown up an interesting question about the rootstock Robinia Frisias are grafted to. Apparently the rootstock is R. Pseudoacacia which is a vigorous green-leaved tree with thorns. I have always understood this was the name given to the Golden leaved tree itself. If this is the case what is the name of the Golden leaved tree that is grafted to this rootstock? I also understand they are very prone to suckering - if these were to grow it would be the green leaved variety - these are best cut off at the root if occur. A. addendum. Robinia pseudoacacia is the species, Robinia pseudoacacia "Frisia" is a variety of that species (horticulturalists are not always very precise about taxonomy). Budding is a type of grafting where a single growing bud rather than twig or larger piece is grafted - different techniques suit different plants. I've never had any problems with this tree (Frisia as opposed to the species) suckering, as you say cut them off at the root if any suckers emerge. Q. I have a 10-year old Robinia (pseudoacacia) which was pruned hard by professionals earlier this year as it had grown more than we wanted and was overhanging a neighbours garden and touching their upstairs window. We enjoy its lovely yellow leaves and don't want it too small (or too large). Now that more shoots have grown after the pruning, we would like to keep it to a manageable size and wish to know which is the correct month to lop off the tops of these shoots and shape the tree, please? I believe that we may have to prune every year to keep it from growing to full height of about 50 feet. Am I right? A. Your Robinia will probably react to the pruning with quite vigorous vertical growth from around the cuts. The trick is to stop this new growth from developing, so rub out the buds or cut the shoots if that bit older as soon as you can. Mid to late summer is best for pruning Robinias, but new growths can be removed as soon as you see them. You need to stop the tree from developing any new substantial leaders which it may do, these will compete with the original leader and may result in a misshapen and structurally weak tree. Narrow crotch angles are weak in these trees. Also, it may respond to pruning by developing suckers - shoots that grow upwards from the roots a little distance from the main trunk. Again these should be removed as soon as possible or they will compete. Robinias don't really respond well to pruning I'm afraid, their natural vigour results in them trying to keep growing upwards and end up being an odd shape. I think if I were you, and you have the room, plant another some distance away from the house and by the time the new one has established itself, the original may have reached the point where sadly the felling axe may be needed. You could replace the current tree with a yellow-leaved shrub instead. Q. My elderly father having cut down his Robinia frisia yellow leafed tree has found suckers coming up all over the lawn and up to the house. He is very worried as to if these will damage the foundations of the house or get into the drains and thinking of having 10 inches of topsoil removed to try and eliminate these suckers spreading. What is the solution to these spreading thorny suckers (once tree has been removed) and should these trees come with a government health warning. They are very pretty and really enliven a dull northern hemisphere garden. From Jane in Jersey U.K. A. The suckers are coming from existing roots, any damage would have already been done, suckers just represent the tree trying to survive a disaster. Cut them (mow them?) as they appear and the resources will eventually be used up and the roots die. Should they have a health warning? I don't think so. The suckers by the way won't be "Frisia" but the rootstock tree, Robinia pseudoacacia, the "Frisia" cultivar will have been grafted onto the species rootstock, so you can't use this as a quick way of getting dozens of new Frisia trees, they'll all be plain old R. pseudoacacia. Q. What do I have to do to get my Robinia pseudoacacia frisia to flower? A. You can't, they don't - well they do very rarely and it's down to the individual tree. The species flowers - Robinia pseudoacacia - but frisia is a sport and the golden yellow foliage is the trade off for a lack of flowers. Q. I have been looking at Robinia very informative, but you do not say when leaves should start in Spring. We have one that has not sprouted yet (April 2nd) and we are very worried about it. A. Robinias do a very good line in dead-looking twigs and they're often one of the latest trees to shoot in the spring, there's plenty of native trees that aren't yet shooting, could be up to another month. If it still hasn't done so by mid May then worrying won't help but would be appropriate. Q. Robinia "Frisia" - I am trying to find out what the root structure is on this tree. I have one planted within 4 feet of a neighbours house and they are concerned about the footings. Its a mature tree ( some 25ft high) and I want to avoid removing it if the roots don't present a problem. Have contacted several local garden centres without success. Any advise appreciated. A. The root structure is almost irrelevant. A leafy 25 foot anything tree, just 4 feet from a house is far too close for comfort. It’s not physical damage by the roots penetrating the foundations that is the problem so much as how the leaves suck up water and dry out the soil so causing shrinkage and swelling over the period of the year. Will it actually do this? Who knows? There are far too many variables, but would I suggest that you leave it in place with an assurance that it is ok? – no way. Would I plant a tree myself that will grow to such an height so close to a house? – no way. Robinia’s are members of the Leguminosae and so will most likely have a tap-root as characteristic of the family. Frisia can grow to 50ft and doesn’t take kindly to pruning. Q. We removed a Robinia last year and of course the shoots from the old root are emerging all over the backyard. I have been treating these with blackberry killer and kero, is it true that the shoots should be treated within 30 seconds of splicing the sucker and how many years will this have to be done until they don't re appear? A. I'd be less inclined to treat with any kind of weedkiller, more just to mow them down when they get big enough for the blades to reach them. It causes less harm to surrounding plants and soil this way. The secret is to make sure they don't get big enough to feed the reserves again. Growing to food-making size uses energy, allowing them to start to make food again fills the reserves. The 30 second rule is news to me. If you really want to get to them,
follow a shoot and dig down to a big underground root, use a big - 12mm
drill bit, make a hole and fill with your blackberry killer - dot this
treatment around and you'll have better success. Q. I would like to plant a false acacia tree in my front garden, one metre from a four foot stone wall and the pathway on the roadside. It's south facing, sheltered by the wall as the ground dips, and I want it to add height and interest to a boring front garden (but not too much height.) Is this he right tree? Worried it may grow too tall and have read that pruning isn't good for it. A. Is 30ft too
tall? If it is, then go for something else as this is what it will reach
at least. If you want a smaller tree I'd go for a Victoria plum as I
love them and they give you spring blossom and autumn colour too. Other
suggestions here. Q. I have just bought 2 Robinias,
as recommended by a garden center (who was aware of my garden
dimensions). I have planted them (wrongly thinking they are
miniatures) 4' apart, as centrepiece to a flowerbed measuring 1.2m x
4m. My garden is 3.5m x 10m and they are 6m away from the house. I have
now read your information and I'm worried they're going to cause me a
whole lot of trouble. I am now thinking of digging them up. What do you
think?
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