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Pansy Universal F1 Mixed
Pansy Universal F1 Mixed

84 plugs - £9.99
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Clematis - Large-flowered Collection
Clematis Large Flowered Collection

5 young plants £9.99
10 young plants - £17.99

Hydrangea paniculata Vanilla Fraise
Hydrangea paniculata Vanilla Fraise
£9.99 or 3 for £17.99


Black Bamboo
Phyllostachys nigra

restrained in habit
10
L pot was £44.99 - now £34.99

Perennial Cottage Garden Bumper Pack A & B
Perennial Bumper Pack
36 plants - £19.99

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New Relax Sofa Bed Med
Dog beds and blankets

Dogs and Gardens

Dog Friendly Gardens, Garden Friendly Dogs 188 pages

Connected pages: planning home | common problems | garden styles | lawns | low maintenance | the new garden | walls and fences | why use a designer? | Find a garden designer | dogs and gardens

I've written this page in response to many enquiries and questions received by email from people who have found that having a lovely garden and a lovely dog (s) are not always two compatible aims.

There are no simple answers unfortunately and no magical products that will provide a quick fix. It is possible to have both a dog and a garden and to be proud of each of them. It just takes time to get there, here's some help along the way.

The approach is one of a combination of damage limitation and training the dog, you may also have to just accept that there are certain things you can't have in your garden along with the dog. Younger dogs are more damaging than older dogs, so part of the answer is that things will get better in time.

If anyone has any great tips then please pass them on use the email link at the bottom of the page.

Dogs and Lawns

The number one question, usually goes something like "My dog has destroyed my lawn and now I want to repair it, but I also want to keep the dog and let it have some exercise".

Dogs (especially large dogs and more than one dog) and lawns (especially small lawns) just don't go that well together. I have a small dog and a large lawn and now in mid-March after a winter of no grass growth, there's a definite path down one side of the lawn where my dog goes on her regular rounds. It's not down to the soil and when I start mowing, and the grass starts to grow again, the path will all but disappear. It could easily become a permanent muddy path if only the garden was a little smaller and the dog a little bigger.

Once an area has become muddy, then getting back to grass again is particularly difficult

Solutions?

  • If starting a lawn from scratch, go for turf rather than seed. Keep the dog/s off the area for at least a month (2 or 3 is better). If you must use grass seed, then try to keep the dogs off the seeded area for at least 3 months for it to start to establish. You could get around this by turfing/seeding one half first, then the other later, though of course you'll have a problem of  muddy dogs paws.
  • If renovating a muddy area again use turf rather than seed, this can be difficult however as it's not easy to get turf in small quantities, some garden centres do have it especially if ordered in advance. Protect the repaired area with a fence of canes and chicken wire until established.
  • Use hard surfaces wherever practicable, especially near the house. A patio will protect the most highly trafficked region where the dog/s go out. Paving slabs set into the lawn beyond this in the next most worn regions will help protect these too.
  • Instead of reseeding Rover's favourite pathway, why not place stepping stones in it first to reduce wear or even just turn it into a proper path?

Hopeful solutions, but short of the mark:

  • Astroturf - seems a good idea in theory, but looks like a big piece of green plastic, more expensive than you'd think too. There are other alternatives but I've yet to hear any great reports.
  • Gravel / Bark Chippings - What a wonderful medium to dig through to get at the soil underneath! Also no fun separating dog poo from lots of little bits that stick to it - yuck!

Bitches and urine spots:

This is a fairly common problem with female dogs of large breeds. Bitches tend to deposit all of their urine in one place, hence the die-back of the grass. It's not such a problem with males as they spread it around a lot more and the smaller quantities in any one place are not usually a problem.

There is no simple solution and water is the best way of neutralizing the urine. The real problem is being around when the dog urinates and seeing where she has done it, if you can do this, then keep a hose handy and spray the area, alternatively a bucket of water will do the same job.

Long term, you could try keeping an area as the "dog toilet", say put bark chips down and try to train your dog to use that area, though this is not as easy with dogs as with cats who take to a specific toilet area better.

This tends to be a summer problem as in the winter, the soil and grass are already wet, so the urine is more diluted. You can repair damaged areas by replacing the top layer of soil, 1-2" and re-seeding or replace with new turf.

Received by email

1.     Just read a question from a lady who says her Labrador bitch is killing her lawn. We have the same problem and came across a product called 'Green-um'. They are tablets you give your dog in their food once a day. Works brilliantly! 
from Carole Mattinson:

2.     Re dog urine and grass die back, A dollop of tomato ketchup in the food once a day works wonders....and the dogs love it too!

Dogs and Plants

Dog proof plants? - well it's usually one of scale, large plants are more dog-proof than smaller plants for obvious reasons. Some dogs just take a liking to digging up plants I once had a black Labrador that really liked to dig out large intact grass plants from the lawn - very frustrating. This is a question of training more than anything, and most dogs will grow out of the habit anyway, it may be a sign of boredom or frustration and maybe the dog needs more exercise than it gets from being enclosed alone in a small garden.

Generally thorny or plants with scented leaves will be avoided, so, Holly, Pyracantha, Berberis, Rosemary, Lavender etc. are safe bets. A low growing lavender hedge could even be used to protect flower beds beyond it (though I've never tried).

Low fences and edging are a great way of training a dog to stay off areas where you don't want them - flower beds in particular. Of course the dog won't know this to start with and will need to be trained so that they know to stay on the grass or patio side of the barrier and are not allowed onto the soil side. These are available in a whole variety of materials and designs from about 4 to 8 inches in height.

Raised beds can be a good way of protecting particular plants such as herbs from dogs and their bodily fluids. A bed of 2-3 railway sleepers depth or made of brick and filled with topsoil is a good way of keeping your plants safe. They also make good design features and bring aromatic plants in particular closer to our level for ease of sniffing, cultivation and gathering.

Protect new plants - newly planted specimens are more interesting than older mature ones and newly disturbed earth hugely more fascinating. If your dog like to dig up newly planted introductions then try protecting them for a few weeks until the soil has settled and they are not so novel. Wooden boxes or planks pegged in place or chicken wire and cane barriers won't look pretty in the garden, but they will only be temporary arrangements and the chances are your plants will be safer when you take them away.

Pest-Stop Outdoor Pest Repeller - £34.99

A pest repeller that is designed to keep your garden clear of unwanted visitors, such as rats, cats, squirrels, rabbits, foxes, badgers and deer. There are three different settings so you can set it to the sound frequency you want. The high frequency setting is used to repel rats but is also effective against squirrels and cats, medium frequency for cats and small dogs, and low frequency for larger dogs, foxes, badgers and deer.

The repeller comes with a wall/fence mounting adapter and rod adapter for placing it on a pole. It is battery operated (4 x D Cell batteries), with option to run it off a 12c AC/DC adapter. Coverage approx 70ft x 50ft in a fan shape from the unit.

Champ Scarecrow - £59.99

Motion activated sprayer. A battery operated sensor detects the heat and movement of an unwanted visitor and then releases a powerful oscillating jet of water up to 30 feet. The sudden noise, movement and water have an immediate effect. Use against cats, dogs, herons, deer, foxes, rabbits, squirrels and many others. Easily connects to the garden hose.


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Last  updated 03 June 2010     Copyright © Paul Ward 2000 - 2010