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Begonia Bumper Pack 21 tubers - 7 of each - £11.99 Fuchsia Giants Collection A 5 young plants - £5 Geranium Colour Carnival F2 Hybrid Mixture 42 plug plants - £6.99 Impatiens (Busy Lizzie) Accent Mixed F1 120 miniplugs + 20 Free - £10.99 Lily 100 Days Collection 10 bulbs - 1 of each variety - £9.99 Petunia Orchid Picotee Mixed F1 100 miniplugs + 10 FREE - £12.49 Verbena F1 Quartz Mixed 84 plug plants - £13.99 |
Q. I have scorched my lawn. I believe I overdosed on the lawn feed. I applied more lawn feed in bottom half than the top half of the lawn. There are more brown patches in the one half of the lawn than the other half. I also used the same lawn feed back in middle April. After a while the grass looked green and beautiful. Nine weeks later in June, I thought it would be a good idea to feed the lawn again. What can I do now. A. Spring and autumn are the best times to feed your lawn, a summer feed is not usually necessary - at least you know for next year!What can you do about it? Not an awful lot I'm afraid. I'd drench the affected areas with water to dissolve and wash away the feed that's sitting there. I mean a really good soaking - a bucket per square foot - so it takes it down deeper into the soil. Also, set your lawn mower a bit higher so that the grass gets a better chance to recover without any extra stresses. "Do I need to re-seed etc or will the grass grow back." I'd leave it for a while and see how it goes, re-seed in the autumn, about mid September if you need to. Any seed sown before then won't take very well at all and it'll give longer for the excess fertiliser to wash away, otherwise the seed will just germinate and then promptly die. Q. I have rotavated my garden and have got most of the roots and weeds out. Is there a weed killer I can put down that will destroy the rest that are hidden or buried that won't effect the turf I lay? A. In a word - no. As far as I am aware there is no selective weedkiller that will remain persistently in the soil. You could let the weeds grow and use a glyphosate based weedkiller that will kill the weeds but be neutralized on contact with the soil, this will take 4-8 weeks for them to grow and then to be killed. You could lay the turf and let any weeds grow through and then deal with them. The mower will kill many, as many weeds cannot stand being cut down continuously as can grass. When the lawn is well established after 4 -6 months, you could the apply a selective weedkiller if necessary in the autumn. Q. My father has accidentally sprayed his grass with path weedkiller and the grass has totally died. Is it safe to re-sow the grass seed on top of the old grass or will the weedkiller be in the soil, would it be safer to dig the area over and restart the lawn from scratch? A. Not an easy one. Path weedkiller is so designated because the weedkiller sits in the soil and continues to have an effect for months afterwards - hence it is very good for use on paths. Sowing new seed would be a waste of time and digging the soil over would dilute the problem but not make it go away. It is just a question of time, the weedkiller will be washed away and will break down within a period of 3-6 months when a new lawn can be sown. The only immediate answer would be to remove all the soil to a depth of 6" or so, replace it and then sow the new grass seed or lay turf. Your best bet is to wait and see when new weeds or grass start to grow through the soil before sowing any grass seed. You can speed the process up a bit by watering during dry weather and doing a few rain dances for luck. Q. I recently applied an autumn feed weed & moss killer (granular). Despite my best intentions & working within the guidelines of application, the grass is showing a distinct blackness. The lawn is now resembling a chocolate lime. Is there anything I can do. A. It's actually working like it should. The chocolate bits are dead moss and the lime bits are live grass, it's probably a shock as you've a lot more moss than you thought! Your next step is to rake out all of the moss or use a scarifier to get rid of it. Dispose of it down the tip rather than on the compost heap. The lawn will look awful for a while, but should recover. If you don't want the moss to come back you need to aerate the grass with a hollow-tine aerator ideally or a fork as a poor second choice and fill the holes with a 50:50 peat:sand mix brushed in. If you don't do this, the moss will return - it may return anyway if your drainage/shade problems are major. There's a lot of work ahead to sort the problem properly, sprinkling the chemicals is just the start and by far the easiest bit. |
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